Archive for June, 2009

What is causing a consistent flow of bubbles from the return pipe to the swimming pool?

Friday, June 12th, 2009

We receive a lot of phone calls asking the same question. In most cases, a pool or spa owner has checked all of his or her pool equipment and even had a pool service technician do the same. Even after tightening every visible screw and lubricating all of the obvious seals, the bubbles continue to flow through the return lines. So what might be happening?

In most cases, air is getting into the system at some point that just might not be discernible to most homeowners or even pool service men. For example, there may be a leak on an underground suction line. As the pump draws water from the pool through this line, it also draws air through the leak. Without x-ray vision, homeowners and most pool service companies cannot detect this kind of leak. It takes specialized testing with modern leak detection equipment, something a good leak detection company can perform.

Besides underground leaks that allow air intrusion into the system, there may even be leaks on above ground equipment that cannot be detected without modern leak detection methods.

There is one other possibility that is not leak related. Sometimes the impeller inside the pump becomes so worn that it actually spins too fast. As a result, the impeller can end up spinning fast enough to break apart water molecules and form air bubbles to be sent through the return lines.

Should you have your plumbing repiped?

Friday, June 12th, 2009

While it is true that plumbing can deteriorate with time, we do not generally recommend replacing all of the plumbing in your home due to the cost. When you talk about repiping a home, you have to consider that you will spend a considerable amount of money on the repipe work alone. In addition to the cost of the repipe, there is additional expense associated with the restoration work that is required on the walls that the pipes are plumbed in and through. Locating and repairing the leak is more typically around $1,000, much less than a repipe.

There are occasions when a full repipe is a good choice. For instance, we would strongly consider a repipe if there had been several leaks on the same line in a short period of time. The objective of quality leak detection is to identify the problem first and proceed to choose the best, most cost effective, and least destructive repair method.

If you want to make the best choice, you should have all of your options before you. What if the leak is outside the home? By taking incomplete advice, you might pay for a repipe of the indoor plumbing and still have the leak problem. If a company is not willing to provide you with accurate, valid information about the leak location and some reasonable repair offers, you should be concerned with the soundness of their advice.

What steps can I take before I bring in a leak specialist to find a leak in my home?

Friday, June 5th, 2009

The following list includes some pointers we often share with home and building owners who want to do some leak hunting of their own. These tidbits apply primarily to leak search areas that do not require advanced electronic leak detection tools and years of experience using them.

  • Be sure to check all your exterior hose bibbs to be sure that one hasn’t been left on. Unfortunately, we occasionally find that this is the problem. You don’t want to have to pay a service call from a leak specialist for something so simple.
  • To check for toilet leaks: Place a dye tablet, food coloring, milk, half and half, or milk of magnesia into a toilet tank full of water. Wait for a few minutes to see if it seeps down into the bowl area. If it does, you will need to repair or replace the flapper valve.
  • If you have a two-piece toilet (separate tank and bowl), take some toilet paper and work it into the open area between the tank and the bowl. Check for water prior to and after flushing. If it is dry prior to flushing, recheck again after flushing. If it is wet, this will confirm a leak occurs during the flushing cycle.
  • Turn on all of the faucets, one by one. While the water is running, move the faucet handle back and forth. Look for water leakage around the valve stem and faucet spout. Check your outside hose bibs too.
  • When checking the faucets, be sure to look at the drain piping under the sink as water flows through the drainpipes.
  • If you have lever operated water-stopping devices (plugs) in sinks and tubs, work them open and closed while the water is running. Look for leaks in these movable parts where they connect to the drain system.
  • Be sure to run the dishwasher and garbage disposal and check for visible leaks during usage.
  • Look at walls where pipes stick out. Look for discoloration, moisture, and sponginess.
  • Hopefully, the water heater is equipped with a safety relief valve (known as a temperature/pressure valve). Be sure to check the exit end of the valve or valve piping for leaks or drips. If the valve is equipped with a hand operated check lever, flush the valve for a few seconds ONLY if it is piped to a safe area that will not run water onto floors or walls. The valve should not leak. If it does, replace it.